THE BALI AGA
Journey into Bali’s Deep Roots
A bastion of AUTHENTIC BALINESE CULTURE
Tenganan Village is renowned among the locals as a bastion of authentic Balinese culture, almost untouched by time. The history of the village itself is shrouded in mystery, with ancient scriptures known as Kitab Awig-awig detailing its past, lost in a devastating fire in 1841.
Unlike the rest of Bali, Tenganan villagers do not follow a caste system and everyone is seen as equal. They also follow a different calendar system, celebrating Galungan and Nyepi in their unique way.
Given the distance and the ceremony’s early start at dawn, I decided to depart a day early, eager not to miss any pivotal moment. My accommodation was an old bungalow, exuded an aura of bygone splendour despite its dark, musky atmosphere. It might not be a luxurious stay, but I do have an ocean view in front of me and while my wife might disagree, the bed is quite comfortable to rest on.
The Cleansing Ritual of Nyunggi
At the break of dawn, as early as 5 AM, the youth embarked on their solemn walk to the temple, carrying holy offerings to the gods. The truna bears this sacred responsibility, for the villagers believe that once a female reaches menstruation, she is no longer as pure. One by one, the youth arrived at the temple, their white ceremonial attire rustling softly in the cold, mystical air, surrounded with the subtle scent of incense.
The scene was ethereal. The first light of day barely pierced through as the youth meticulously laid palm leaves, creating a sacred tapestry on the floor. They moved with a serene grace, each step a silent prayer. As they settled on the palm leaves, a hushed reverence fell over the gathering. The air seemed to hum with the ancient energy of centuries-old mantras, chanted in unison like a sacred symphony.
The ceremony reached its poignant finale as the youth partook in the simple yet profound act of consuming young coconut and palm sugar together. This act symbolised a communal feast, a moment of shared sustenance and unity. As the ritual completed, they descended back to the village with their hearts and spirits prepared for the intense energy of the upcoming Makare-kare ceremony.
The Cock Fighting Ceremony: Mecaru
Mekare-kare or Perang Pandan Ceremony itself is a ceremonial offering performed to honour the god of war, Indra and the ancestors. In Tenganan, villagers pray to Indra as their god. Legend has it that Indra himself gifted the land to the villagers as a token of gratitude after they found his sacrificial horse, meant to cleanse the land from the bloodbath of his battle with the mighty king of Bedahulu, Maya Danawa, who once forbade the villagers from worshipping the gods.
There are several ceremonies preceding the main Perang Pandan event. After the Nyunggi ceremony, I went to the village to join the villagers who had gathered for Mecaru, a traditional cockfighting ceremony. This ritual aims to cleanse the land of evil spirits through the blood of the roosters. It was astonishing to witness the seamless flow of one ceremony into the next, each steeped in earnest cultural significance.
As the morning break, the youth with their eyes glowing with anticipation, prepared for the next ceremony known as Ayunan Jantra or Swing Ceremony. This swing ceremony involves the daha sitting on a round wooden swing, which the truna manually spins. The Ayunan Jantra embodies the philosophy of life’s ups and downs, serving as a poignant reminder for the youth to remain resilient and strong amidst life’s uncertainties.
The scene was mesmerising. The rhythmic creaking of the wooden swing filled the air, blending with the murmurs of the villagers and the distant sound of gamelan. The daha, adorned in traditional attire, gracefully seated on the swing, exuded a sense of serenity and strength and the truna with unwavering focus, spun the swing as their movements symbolised the relentless passage of time and the ever-changing tides of life.
The Ceremony: PERANG PANDAN
It wasn’t long until we reached the pinnacle of the day’s events, the Perang Pandan ceremony. It was noon and the sun climbed higher in the sky, casting a golden hue over Tenganan village. I was drenched in heat and sweat as I felt the dynamic had shifted from the earlier serene ceremony in the temple. Now, the air is electric, charged with the energy of generations past and present.
The male of the village, some as young as 9 years old, and some as older as in their 50’s, stepped into the arena, carrying their shield and thorny pandan leaves. With fierce determination in their eyes, they faced each other, ready to engage in a ritualistic combat that was both a tribute and a test.
As the signal was given, they clashed, using the pandan leaves as their weapon. The sound of leaves slashing through the air and the skin, the sharp intakes of breath, and the occasional cheer from the crowd created an orchestra of raw, primal energy. Despite the intensity, there was no malice, only a profound respect for tradition and for each other.
To the villagers, the Perang Pandan ceremony was more than a spectacle, it was a visceral experience that connected them to their ancestors and their land. Watching these men fight, I was struck by the sheer physicality and the deep spiritual significance of the ritual.
Each clash of pandan leaves was a reminder of the village’s dedication and unity, a celebration of their heritage and their indomitable spirit.
After the Pandan War ceremony, the warriors with their bodies marked with fresh cuts and scratches, gather to tend to their wounds. They apply an ancient golden mixture concoction made of turmeric, galangal, and vinegar believed to speed up the healing process. As the healing balm works its magic, the warriors sit together in palpable camaraderie and prepare to feast.
Seeing the deep importance of food in their culture sparked my curiosity. The way they celebrated and healed through shared meals spoke volumes about their traditions. Determined to delve deeper, I sought out Kadek, one of the village’s chefs, eager to uncover the secrets of their traditional dishes. These culinary treasures, known only among the villagers, held stories and flavours that were waiting to be explored.
NOW WE’RE COOKING
On my last day in Tenganan village, Kadek welcomed me into his traditional home kitchen. In the counter, he has leaves he foraged from the jungle behind his house as well as other ingredients. Despite the language barrier, we communicated quite effortlessly. Our shared passion for cooking bridged the gaps as we sliced through chillies, shallots and turmeric together. Kadek guided me through the intricate step by step of the recipes that had been passed down through generations, explaining each leaf and its benefits. According to him, there were no precise measurements, instead, the ingredients were combined based on an intuitive sense of balance and ratio.
We spent the whole afternoon creating traditional dishes he usually makes at home, such as brancuh, sayur ononan, and sambelonto. As we cooked, I realised that while some recipes are almost similar to certain parts of Bali, there are unique touches influenced by Tenganan’s mountain location. Their sambal matah, for example, includes ginger and pork fat instead of the classic lemongrass. It was fascinating to see how adaptable Balinese cuisine is, with each area of the village adding its delicious twist yet staying true to the essence of the main recipe.
Sitting there, savouring the fruits of our labour, I felt a deep sense of connection to this place and its people. The rain created a soothing backdrop, enhancing the flavours and the experience. For me, it was a moment of genuine appreciation for the simplicity and depth of not only Tenganan’s traditional cuisine, but also, its unshaken dedication of keeping its tradition alive.
As Kadek and I shared stories and laughter over the meal, I knew this whole trip and experience would stay with me long after I left the village. Through each ceremony and each dish I cooked with Kadek, I felt a powerful bond with the people of Tenganan and a deeper understanding of their way of life. Tenganan and its way of life stands as a powerful example of how tradition can thrive, even in the face of modernity. Needless to say, this experience will remain a benchmark in my travels, a reminder of the true essence of cultural heritage in the land of Bali.
